Embroidered patch digitizing: sizes, borders, backing and what to send

A patch is a small, stiff piece of embroidery that lives on its own until it's sewn or ironed onto a jacket, cap or bag. Because there's no garment underneath to hold it, a patch file is built differently from the same logo stitched straight onto a shirt.

Common patch sizes

• 2 to 3 in for caps, sleeves and small bags.
• 3 to 4 in for the left chest, backpacks and most uniform patches.
• Larger back patches for jackets and vests, often 8 to 12 in, usually sewn on rather than ironed.

Patch makers often size a patch by the average of its width and height, so a 3 × 2 in patch counts as 2½ in. Give the digitizer the exact finished width and height.

Satin border or merrow border

• Satin border. The embroidery machine stitches a wide satin edge around the design, and the patch is cut out close to it. It works for any shape, including stars, shields and lettering outlines, and it's the border you can make on a home machine.
• Merrow border. A thick, rope-like overlock edge sewn by a separate merrow machine after the embroidery. It suits simple shapes (circles, ovals, squares and rectangles with rounded corners), and the file itself has no border: the digitizer leaves a clean edge for the merrow to wrap.

Tell the digitizer which one you'll use, because it changes the outside of the file.

How much of the patch to fill

• Fully embroidered: every millimetre is stitched, so the patch is thick and the background colour is thread. It looks rich, but it means more stitches and a longer run.
• Twill background: the design is stitched onto a coloured twill, and the fabric shows through as the background. It's lighter and faster, and very common for uniform and team patches.

Small text needs the same care as on a cap: keep letters at least about ¼ in (6 mm) tall, and give thin outlines some width so they don't sink into the base.

Backing

• Sew-on: no backing needed beyond a stabilizer; the most durable choice for jackets and bags.
• Iron-on: a heat-seal film on the back, pressed on with heat and pressure. Good for cotton and denim; check the garment's label first.
• Hook-and-loop: for uniforms and tactical gear, where patches are swapped.

Making a patch in the hoop at home

1. Hoop a firm stabilizer (a heavy tear-away or a water-soluble film) and float the twill on top, or stitch straight onto the stabilizer for a fully embroidered patch.
2. Stitch the design, then the satin border last, so it covers the raw edge.
3. Cut out close to the border, taking care not to snip the stitches, and seal the edge if your patch needs it.
4. Add the backing you chose.

Sew a test patch first: a patch shows every gap in a border, and the first one tells you how close you can cut.

What to send a digitizer

• Your design, as the sharpest file you have: PNG, JPG, PDF, AI, EPS or SVG.
• The finished size and shape.
• Satin border or merrow border, and fully embroidered or twill background.
• Your machine, so the file comes in the right format.

Get your patch digitized free

Your first design is free, up to 4 in (102 mm): the size of most patches. You get every format (DST, PES, JEF, EXP, VP3 and XXX) and a production sheet with the thread codes, within 48 hours, and no card is needed. After that, every design is $10 at any size, back patches included. Claim your free design.